If you are
taking on a wall tiling project, this section will help to
guide you through the process.
Wall
Tiles
How many Tiles Do You Need?
First measure the walls to be tiled and
calculate the area in square metres, work out the number
of tiles per square metre and multiply this by the area to
be covered or ask any member of staff at Rogers Ceramics
to help with calculations. Remember, we offer a full
refund on box quantities of stock tiles returned within
one month of purchase. So don't worry if you over
calculate.
How
much adhesive and Grout will you need?
Adhesive: 10 litres covers approximately 7sq.
metres of tiles (This may vary depending on the key
profile on the back of the tile)
Grout: 3.5 kg covers approximately 8 sq. meters of tiles
(based on using a 150x150x5.5mm tile fixed with a 2mm
joint).
Preparation
You will
need a perfectly flat surface for tiling, do not cut
corners - preparing the surface is vital.
{a)
New plaster should be left for 4 weeks and be thoroughly
dry before tiling. Old plaster is suitable provided
it is sound.
(b) Plaster board is suitable for walls
provided it is well supported with the board being a
minimum of 12.5mm
(c) Painted surfaces. It is very important to
make a detailed examination of the surface, as the
permanent success of the installation is dependent
on good adhesion between the paint and the surface
to which it has been applied and between any
substrate and basic structure. Remove any old wall
covering and flaking paint. Fill in old cracks and
voids with filler. Ensure the surface to be tiled is
smooth, clean and free from dust or grease.
Setting Out
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Planning
ahead is essential for a good result.
Along a length of timber mark the tile
widths to help you identify where the tile
will start and finish, remembering to leave
space for the
joints, which must be at least 2mm wide.
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out horizontal positions of the tile so that
the same size cuts are made either side of
windows etc. Avoid small cuts as they can
spoil the appearance. Plan each wall
carefully, remembering that any
patterns/designs will need to be matched in
the corners of the room. For plain tiles each
wall should be centralised avoiding any small
cuts |
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Off You Go
1.-
Find the lowest
point of the base you are working to ( skirtings, bath
top, work surfaces etc.) with a spirit level.
2.-
Place a tile
against the lowest point and draw a line on the wall
along the top of the tile. N.B. The start point of the
line will depend on the setting out of the tiles, as
the tile against the floor may be a cut tile.
3.-
Nail the batten
along the wall to this line. Use the spirit level to
ensure it is level. The first line of tiles will rest
of this batten.
4.-
Draw a vertical
(plumb) line at one end of the wall, one tile width
away from the edge. Use this to check that tiles are
in line vertically.
Adhesives
There are many different types of
adhesive available on the market. As all conditions
vary, it is most important that you seek advice on
the correct type. Always follow the manufacturers'
instructions.
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5.-
Spread
the wall tile adhesive using a notched
trowel or spreader onto the wall. Work in a
small area of about 1 sq. metre at a time,
so that tiles are fixed before the adhesive
forms a skin.
Press and twist
the wall tile into the adhesive starting at
the bottom and working upwards, one row of
whole tiles at a time, using spacers (if
required) to ensure a uniform joint. Check
the horizontal and vertical lines with a
spirit level every few rows.
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6.-
Remove surplus adhesive from the tile
surface with a damp sponge, and from joints
to allow for grout When the adhesive has
set, remove the batten and complete the
tiling.
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7.-
When tiles need to be cut, ask our staff for
a demonstration of the various tools
available. There are tile cutters and tile
pincers that will help to achieve
professional results.
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Tile
Cutting and Edging
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8.- In
awkward locations it is often easier to
apply the wall adhesive onto the back of the
tile instead of on the wall. For complicated
shapes use cardboard to make a template and
transfer the design to the tile.
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9.-
If the tile
does not have a glazed edge, a neat finish on
external edges and corners can be achieved with the
use of a tile edge trim incorporated at the time of
tiling. To prevent the seepage of water around baths
and basins, a plastic sealing strip or silicone
sealant should be used.
Grouting
Do not begin
grouting for at least 12 hours after fixing. There are
many types of grout, so ask a member of staff for the
correct grout for your application, especially when using
highly glazed tiles.
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Force
the grout into the the joints using a flexible
spreader or grouting sponge. Do not use steel or
hard rigid spreaders as these can cause
scratching to certain tile glazes. |
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Remove
surplus grout from the surface with with a
sponge and 'peg' the joints with a rounded stick
to achieve an even finish. Polish with a dry
cloth |
